The 2012 Barolo Pajana represents an important stylistic change. Domenico Clerico is increasingly moving away from small barrique and is embracing more large Slavonian oak casks. In fact, this wine sees equal use of both small and large wood. The end result is terrific and the wine is both elegant and powerful down to its inner core. The aromas are fine and sharp, and the mouthfeel is textured and rich. Those of us who have followed the evolution of this innovative estate would probably associate Domenico Clerico with contemporary wines and French barrique. But this stylistic trend is not totally unexpected given a region-wide desire to return to roots.
The wines I tasted at Domenico Clerico this year will all be released in September. The only exception is the 2008 Barolo Per Cristina that will hit the market next year, probably in April 2018. Only 3,000 bottles were made. Among the wines made in the 2012 vintage, the Barolo Aeroplan Servaj was not produced, neither was the 2012 Barolo Per Cristina. The other piece of interesting news from this estate is the increased use of botte grande in most of the Barolo expressions. In fact, most wines undergo a mixed approach of 16 months in barrique followed by an additional 16 months in botte grande. The Barolo Per Cristina does three years in barrique followed by two years in large Slavonian oak casks.
Published: Jul 01, 2017