2022 Jean-Louis Chave L’Hermitage Blanc

2022 was the earliest harvest in the estate's history. Jean-Louis Chave harvested the Roucoule and Péléat plots on August 23-24, while Maison Blanche and Ermite were picked on August 28. The 2022 Hermitage Blanc reveals a complex, ripe bouquet of almonds, white flowers, honey and spices mingled with baked orchard fruits. Full-bodied and concentrated, the palate is rich and dense with a suave texture, a multidimensional core of fruit framed by chalky dry extracts and a delicate, phenolic, gastronomic bitterness. Slightly austere at this stage, this gastronomic wine is built for the cellar.

I began tasting with Jean-Louis Chave at 4 p.m. and wrapped up six hours later. It was one of the most captivating and enlightening tastings during my trip to Hermitage. Jean-Louis, the latest in a long line of growers from a family that has made wine in Hermitage since 1481, is undoubtedly among the greatest vignerons in the world. Despite his towering reputation, he is a modest man, adhering to winemaking practices similar to those of his father, which sparked one of our most intense discussions. A tireless thinker and a genius in viticulture, Jean-Louis has been instrumental in revitalizing the Saint-Joseph hillsides. His acquisition of Clos Florentin in 2009 (one of Saint-Joseph’s emblematic properties, previously owned by Dr. Florentin) has significantly propelled the quality of his Saint-Joseph wines. Jean-Louis is proud of his 2022 vintages, particularly appreciating how well the vines adapted to a dry and exceptionally difficult year. Though dense, the wines from this vintage exhibit the freshness and spontaneity that define their character.

While I greatly respect Jean-Louis Chave, I must mention that the presence of volatile phenols derived from Brettanomyces in his wines is a masking filter between the terroir and the wine itself. He maintains that this level of phenols is traditional, consistent with the manner in which his predecessors crafted their wines.