The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon treads a pleasant middle path between the 2014 (riper) and the 2015 (greener). Cassis and cocoa appear on the nose, followed by a crisp, medium-bodied, slightly grainy-textured wine in the mouth and a long, mouthwatering finish. Personally, I'd prefer more generosity and richness on the palate in the red wines, but there's no questioning the commitment to farming at this American-owned micro-estate.
American Will Berliner seems more and more comfortable in his adopted Margaret River, despite his assertion that "this was a ‘fell-into’ thing.” His tiny four or five acres of vineyards are all farmed organically and essentially by hand. When he can find reliable help, one of the main chores is pulling weeds among his close-planted, almost bonsai-like vines. He planted the first vines in 2005, but the process continues today, as he continually fills gaps in the vineyard. No supplemental water is used, so some of the vines invariably fail to take proper root and need to be replaced the following year—and sometimes the year after that. Originally, the wines were made at Woodlands, but now Berliner has another facility at his disposal. I find the Chardonnay more consistent, but the Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec (when bottled separately) can also excel. The high pricing—$250 per bottle or more—reflects the scarcity, lack of economy of scale and the intensive labor Berliner devotes to the vineyard.