| The Wine Advocate RP 94 (84 Bottles Imported) Tighter and more restrained than Cloudburst's opulent 2017, the 2016 Chardonnay combines nutty aromas with hints of toasted brioche, then backs those up with white peaches and pineapple. It's medium-bodied, with a charming, silky texture and plenty of length on the finish. This should age effortlessly for up to a decade or so. |
ワイン・アドヴォケイト（RP 94点／輸入本数84本） 華やかなクラウドバーストの2017年ヴィンテージと比較すると、よりタイトで引き締まったスタイルを見せる2016年のシャルドネ。香ばしいナッツのアロマにトーストしたブリオッシュのニュアンスが重なり、その奥から白桃やパイナップルの風味がしっかりと広がります。ミディアムボディで、魅力的なシルキーな質感と長くて豊かな余韻が特徴です。10年ほどは容易に熟成させることができるでしょう。 |
American Will Berliner seems more and more comfortable in his adopted Margaret River, despite his assertion that "this was a ‘fell-into’ thing.” His tiny four or five acres of vineyards are all farmed organically and essentially by hand. When he can find reliable help, one of the main chores is pulling weeds among his close-planted, almost bonsai-like vines. He planted the first vines in 2005, but the process continues today, as he continually fills gaps in the vineyard. No supplemental water is used, so some of the vines invariably fail to take proper root and need to be replaced the following year—and sometimes the year after that. Originally, the wines were made at Woodlands, but now Berliner has another facility at his disposal. I find the Chardonnay more consistent, but the Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec (when bottled separately) can also excel. The high pricing—$250 per bottle or more—reflects the scarcity, lack of economy of scale and the intensive labor Berliner devotes to the vineyard.